Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore.
Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore.
Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding, when a surfer rides a wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee, or sometimes even standing up on a body board.
Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats), and using foils.
Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave.
Waves are Left handed and Right Handed depending upon the breaking formation of the wave.
Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break.
For example, there are Beach breaks, Reef breaks and Point breaks.
To the delight of visitors, Freeth exhibited his surfing skills twice a day in front of the Hotel Redondo. Swell is generated when wind blows consistently over a large area of open water, called the wind's fetch.
The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind and the length of its fetch and duration.
George Freeth (8 November 1883 – 7 April 1919) is often credited as being the "Father of Modern Surfing".